We can feel it - you’re in your social era, with weddings, graduations and all kinds of party invitations flooding your inbox. If theres’s a black tie dress code attached, don’t panic. While the addition of a dress code can feel daunting (black tie is hardly a regular occurrence, after all) this is everything you need to know about navigating a black tie dress code in ultimate style.
So, what does black tie dress code mean?
Black tie describes exactly what the men should wear - it means a black dinner jacket, white or cream shirt with a bow tie and black trousers (men shouldn’t wear a regular suit.) It became popular in the 1930s, after the royal family started wearing dinner jackets instead of the white tie dress code. Black tie is only worn for events starting after 7pm so it’s definitely an evening lewk.
The dress code is less specific for women. You don’t have wear a long dress (etiquette specialists Debrett’s say knee-length cocktail dresses are fine) but you should definitely go more fancy than what you’d wear on a regular night out. Because the dress code was invented as a guide for men (we know, we know, it’s 2023…) women tended to echo the sombre tones of their outfits and wear black or dark dresses but again, there’s no expectation to wear black, unless you want to. If pastels are your thing, you do you.
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What is the difference between white tie and black tie?
You’re likely to only see white tie dress code in period dramas, unless you’re attending a royal event, state ball or a party thrown by Elton John… Women are definitely expected to wear a long dress or ball gown. Long gloves and tiaras are positively encouraged.
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Why do dress codes matter?
Our daily lives and day-to-day ‘fits are so relaxed, it’s a rarity to have an occasion to really dress up for. But instead of panicking about the black tie dress code, see it as a useful pointer to make sure you don’t turn up underdressed, overdressed or in an outfit that is totally inappropriate.
It’s also respectful to the party organiser. If they’ve gone to all the trouble of throwing a fancy do - and they want you there with them - adhering to the dress code is a way to show your appreciation to the hosts. If possible, you should ask them what they're wearing - or definitely scope out what their expectations are.
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How should you navigate a black tie dress code?
Start by looking at the invite for clues as to how smart the event will be… you can gauge how casual a party is going to feel by noting if you’re invited to the pub via text or a stiff piece of card with a swirly font that ‘requests the pleasure of your company’ at a stately home. Once you have an idea of what the vibe is, always start by thinking about your own personal style in relation to the event…
So often people think black tie means a long, strapless, dark prom-style dress and if that’s your style, you do you, but there are options. If you want to show off your legs you could go short - but keep it classy with either long sleeves or a higher neckline. Think Princess Diana’s revenge dress for timeless inspo and add sheer 10 denier tights for a fashion twist. You might want to check in with your host before you checkout, though, to ensure that you're not wildly out of step with the mood of the event.
If you’re going to the party with a date or a group of friends, definitely discuss the dress code beforehand and plan to dress similarly, if possible. Obviously it will make the photos look dreamy on your feed but if you’re similarly dressed to your friends, you will also feel more appropriate. There is safety in numbers, when it comes to black tie dress codes.
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How can you avoid wardrobe faux pas?
Because black tie is a dressed up dress code, think about the fabric that you’re going to wear and make sure it’s suitably luxe. In winter velvet or taffeta is a great choice and for summer, silks, satins, lace and chiffon are ideal. Sequins also work at any time of year as do lurex, lame and metallic materials. We love linen for summer daytime dressing but it can look too casual for a black tie dress code, as does cotton, poplin and denim - despite Britney Spear’s iconic red carpet denim gown from 2001.
If wearing the same thing as another guest is your idea of a nightmare situation, see if you can speak to as many of the other guests before you plan your outfit (or check in with the host, be forthright and ask if she knows if anyone else is planning on wearing the same as you.) Chatting with the host will give you helpful pointers as to their interpretation of the dress code to see if you're on the right track (and avoid unplanned twinning) but you can also work out if any of the potential guests will have seen you wearing a dress before, if you're planning repeat-wearing something you already own (which isn't a faux pas.)
What happens if you do spot someone in the same dress as you? Be bold. Go straight up to the other guest, compliment them on their excellent fashion sense, take a selfie and then avoid each other for the rest of the night.
What if I don’t do dresses?
Not a problem. A jumpsuit is a modern alternative to the one-and-done ease of a dress - go for a bright shade and add statement jewellery but you could also wear a tuxedo suit, over bare skin or with a silky camisole underneath. Don’t underestimate the power of separates too. A full-length skirt would be a really versatile choice. You can style it with a white men’s dress shirt (like designer Carolina Herrera often does) or wear it with a bodysuit in a similar shade for a coherent look. A sequin tank top will also bring some drama. You could also go for a silk or satin blazer over a simple slip dress, if you have one in your wardrobe already.
Because black tie dress codes are pretty rare, you won’t get as much wear out of your outfit as you would if you were buying a white t-shirt or jeans, for example, so renting your look would be a clever and sustainable choice. Check out our guide to the best rental sites here. If you do buy something but won't get the chance to wear it again, consider becoming a lender yourself. This is everything you need to know, here.
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What shoes should I wear?
This is completely up to you and depends on the rest of your outfit and the venue. Will you be sinking into a lawn if you wear stilettos or sliding over slippery polished parquet in patent courts? Check out the location of the event before you commit to your shoes.
If you’re wearing a dress with lots of volume, you might feel the need for a platform heel to balance out the look but likewise, if you’re planning on spending a chunk of time on the dancefloor, a fancy flat shoe might be your best choice.
In general, consider that metallics are a neutral and anything diamanté, sparkly or jewelled will be perfect (although satin will get marked with just one spilled glass of champagne…)
Earth Day is the perfect prompt to re-think your shopping habits.
What colour is appropriate for a black tie dress code?
While black became the norm to complement the male dress code (*eye roll*) you can honestly choose from the entire rainbow. Check in with the host if you’re attending a wedding as you might want to avoid choosing a shade in the same colour as the bridemaid's dresses… In general, strong, bold, jewel colours always make an impact although pastels are dreamy too. Prints can sometimes feel a bit too daytime-y for an evening event but judge from the venue and your host’s tastes as to what's appropriate. J-Lo’s jungle print Versace dress is a print that would work for black tie, whereas a pastel floral Liberty print dress could feel too cottagecore for night-time.
But whatever you do decide to wear, have fun!
For more from Glamour UK Fashion Director at large Alex Fullerton, follow her on Instagram @alexandrafullerton
