How to get rid of pores, according to the experts
The word “pores" has over three billion hits on Google – and the number one, most asked question? “How to get rid of pores”. Tbf, it’s an affliction that affects most of us, Regina George included. And, alongside ingrown hairs, rogue spider veins and wonky eyebrows, open pores speckled across our nose and cheeks are one of beauty's most persistent grievances. They're also one of the hardest problems to shift.
Truth of the matter is, you cannot simply get rid of pores. Pores play an important function in helping our skin to release sebum – our body's natural oil – to leave it naturally supple and moisturised. However, we understand the desire to want the type of radiant, smooth-looking canvas that would make a dolphin envious. So wanting to reduce the appearance of pores is valid.
Of course, we're beautiful just the way we are – pores and all – but if they're bugging you, we've got some expert advice lined up that should help.
There’s been much debate over the years about how exactly pores work. But contrary to popular belief pores can't be opened and closed like doors (they don't have muscles). However, there is some merit to applying hot and cold water to make them appear more or less pronounced (more on that later).
So what can be done about our God-given orifices? We asked Dr Nina Bal, facial aesthetics doctor and founder of FacialSculpting to run us through everything we need to know.
What are visible pores?
They may appear to be tiny dots on the surface of our skin, but pores are actually the small openings to our hair follicles. “There are two different types of pore,” says Nina. “One releases sebum (the body’s natural oil) and the other releases sweat.” Though tiny, “pores enable the oil, sweat and sebum to go from our glands to the surface of our skin, which is essential for healthy skin.” So think of them like your skin's window.
How many pores is normal?
The average adult will have around five million pores on their body and 20,000 on their face. But, “generally we can’t see pores in the skin,” says Nina. It’s only when enlarged that they become visible.
What causes large visible pores?
Usually, pores are genetically determined, but there are other factors which can affect the visibility of our pores. For instance, an overproduction of sebum can make pores appear larger. “If oil, toxins, dirt, and makeup collect in the pore, this can weigh it down and stretch it, making our pores appear much bigger than they are on the surface of the skin,” explains Nina.
Ageing skin is another culprit. “The skin around the pore can become less elastic as we age, making it appear larger,” says Nina.
Likewise, the sun dehydrates your skin, explains Nina, which makes the oil glands over-grown, “this in turn makes pores look bigger,” she notes.
As for other factors, inadequate skin cleansing, occlusive (or overly thick) makeup, and non-medical grade skincare (which may use ingredients that block pores) can also contribute.
Getting to the bottom of it.
Are there triggers that make pores more visible?
“Sunlight plays a part in making them look more visible,” says Nina, so if you’re out in bright, clear sunlight, they’re likely to show up more. And, “makeup can also make pores seem bigger than they actually are,” she says. “Powders and foundation can settle into those tiny holes over the course of the day, making them appear larger.”
Is it true that pores can open and close – i.e warm water can open them and cold water can close them?
“No! It’s a myth! Pores do not open and close like doors,” says Nina. Why? They’re simply openings in our skin and, crucially, they don’t have muscles attached to them so they can’t pull and contract.
Instead, cold water can make blood vessels constrict, making pores appear smaller for the short time they’re cool, while hot water and steam can loosen up the sebum and debris inside the pore, enabling it to be squeezed out more easily (though we know we’re not really supposed to). So, “they can temporarily appear to close with cold and open with heat but for a very short time, they then they go back to normal size,” says Nina.
How to get rid of pores?
In terms of actually getting rid of pores, it's not possible. “Unfortunately, once pores have stretched, they cannot go back to their original size,” says Nina. However, the good news is, we can make them appear smaller. “Large pores can continue enlarging if you allow them to stretch out and become clogged with whiteheads, blackheads, sebum, and dirt,” Nina warns.
How can we minimise the appearance of pores?
“You can do this by cleansing skin twice a day and exfoliating twice a week in order to remove oil, dirt, sebum and cellular debris,” says Nina. “Minimising sun exposure is also key since UV radiation breaks down collagen and elastin, which in turn expands the pore size,” adds Nina, “so using an SPF of 40+ every day is vital.”
How to know when your pores are blocked?
Blocked pores can manifest in various ways on the skin. One of the most common signs of blocked pores is the development of blemishes such as blackheads, whiteheads, or pimples. These occur when dead skin cells, sebum (natural oil), and bacteria clog the pores.
When pores become clogged, they can also appear larger than usual. The accumulation of debris, sebum, and dead skin cells can stretch and expand the pore openings, making them more noticeable. Jared Bailey, Benefit’s Global Brow & Beauty Authority and Licensed Aesthetician adds: “You want to be able to look at yourself in the mirror and identify, 'oh this one's a much deeper colour than the rest, so it's clearly blocked.' Then you want to treat it with products that have active ingredients to target that.”
What can we do to treat them?
It’s an oldie but a goodie – prevention is better than cure, since, as we’ve already established, once pores stretch, they won’t become smaller. “While you may not be able to shrink your pore size, you can ensure your pores don’t get any bigger by following a proper skin care plan,” says Nina who recommends using medical grade skincare products such as salicylic acid, alpha hydroxy acid, glycolic acid, retinol and non-comedogenic makeup (i.e. lightweight makeup that won’t clog your pores).
And for a little extra help, Nina suggests using a makeup primer. “A makeup primer not only helps your makeup stay in place, but it smooths and fills the surface of the skin which can help reduce the appearance of enlarged pores.”
Here’s our go-to kit for pore-friendly products:
A toning serum
Fenty Skin Fat Water Pore-Refining Toner Serum, £29, Sephora
This toner is like a superhero for your pores, tightening their appearance and giving you that a smoother looking complexion, it helps to visibly fade dark spots and plumps the skin. Bonus? It does this without stripping away the moisture on your skin. Niacinamide takes center stage when it comes to ingredients, targeting those pores like a pro while helping to even out your skin tone.
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A super serum
Glossier Super Pure, £25, Glossier
This little gem is packed with a powerful duo of vitamins and minerals but Niacinamide is its star ingredient. It's super effective without causing any irritation to your the skin and works well with the Zinc PCA to nourish your skin leaving you with visibly smoother texture and smaller-looking pores.
PHA and BHA toner
Glow Recipe Glow With Pride Watermelon Glow PHA and BHA Pore-Tight Toner, £30.74, Cult Beauty
This toner is powered by the juiciness of watermelon extract, vitamins, antioxidants, and amino acids that your complexion will thank you for. When it comes to refining and decongesting those problematic pores, with the help of powerful acids, it works its magic, leaving you with ultra-smooth, radiant skin. In honour of Pride Month, Glow Recipe have reimagined this toner, and 100% of profits up to $30,000 are going to nonprofit organisations empowering LGBTQIA+ youth globally.
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A power cleansing set
Benefit Pore Routine Roundup Pore Care Set, £35, Look Fantastic
Benefit Cosmetics launched an entire skincare range dedicated solely for your pores. This range contains the essentials you need to keep pores in check and bring out a beautifully smooth and supple complexion. The Good Cleanup Pore-Purifying Foaming Cleanser works hard to sweep away all traces of oil and impurities. The Tight ’N Toned Pore-Refining AHA+PHA Toning Foam helps to minimise their appearance while brightening up your complexion. Then you have The Smooth Sip Lightweight Smoothing Moisturiser For Pores that wraps your skin in a hydrating embrace, providing long-lasting nourishment.
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A primer before your makeup
Benefit The POREfessional Face Primer, £23.25, Look Fantastic
It's safe to say that Benefit have become Pore experts. It's no wonder the POREfessional Face Primer has been the such a knock out. A silky yet creamy formula packed with Vitamin E that glides across your skin seamlessly, to reduce the appearance of fine lines and discolouration. Almost like a magic eraser that tackle oily skin like a boss. Trust it to leave you with a matte, smooth finish that lasts all day long.
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A lightweight moisturiser
Bioderma Hydrabio Gel Cream, £16, Look Fantastic
If you're prone to larger pores, you're best off sticking to lightweight formulas that sink all the way in and don't get trapped in pores, so avoid rich creams. This gel cream from Bioderma is ultra light but ultra quenching.
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A retinol treatment
The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane, £6.90, Cult Beauty
Retinol is the gold standard in skin smoothing but it's also pretty nifty at promoting cell regeneration, which means it will also help to shed old skin cells in order to prevent them causing blockages. For an introduction to retinol, look no further than The Ordinary which has a range of options at different strengths (if you're new to the ingredient, start on a low percentage like 0.2). If you're in need of something stronger, Dr Bal recommends asking your doctor to prescribe you retinol from professional skincare brands, Alumier MD and ZO Obagi.
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Daily SPF
Murad City Skin Broad Spectrum SPF 50, £60, LookFantastic
This mineral sunscreen is completely broad spectrum, protecting against UVA, UVB, Infrared and pollution. It's also wonderfully lightweight so as not to clog skin.
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An exfoliator twice a week
Dr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel, £18, Look Fantastic
Regular exfoliation will help to remove the dead skin cells and leftover grime that your cleanser can't shift, ensuring none end up plugging your pores. This two step system by Dr Dennis Gross, contains salicylic acid and AHAs followed by a neutraliser to keep skin feeling comfortable.
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A non-comedogenic foundation
Nars Sheer Glow Foundation, £35, Cult Beauty
Ultra heavy and ultra long-wearing foundations often contain oils that block and enlarge pores, so opt for something non-comedogenic (non pore-blocking) like Nars' buildable Sheer Glow Foundation.
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