Calling someone a diva has always been a diss but the Diva V&A exhibition is set to change that… No-one wants to be branded as a “self-important, temperamental and extremely demanding (woman)” which is how the Oxford English Dictionary defines a diva (and of course, divas are almost always women.)
But rewind to the diva’s origin story, where the word meant goddess or, later, a “distinguished female singer.” It’s clear something has been lost in translation. The new exhibition at the V&A sets out to reclaim the true identity of the diva, which is that of feminist, activist, game changer and creative freedom fighter.
Opening on Saturday, Diva is fully on board with the sensory journey being a diva inspires and the immersive experience combines sound and stunning visuals. Telling the story of the first divas, from Josephine Baker and legends of silent film, through to jazz divas of the Sixties like Nina Simone (and their impact on the racial justice and civil rights movement) the show journeys through to today, where the concept of diva gets a reset.
Kate Bailey, performance curator behind the Diva V&A exhibition, explains her thoughts on the show. “The term (diva) has become omnipresent so it felt like the right time look at the origins and reclaim it. With the V&A we celebrate female artists throughout the museum, but to bring the performer centre stage and recognise and celebrate the artistry of these icons is great.”
Trans people are doubted and maligned, just as cis women have always been.
With 250 pieces on display, including stage costumes from Billie Eilish to Elton John’s birthday party lewk, Tina Turner’s sequinned minidress and Dame Shirley Bassey’s crystal monogrammed wellies, which she wore to perform at Glastonbury, the fashion on display dazzles. “The diva is very much a 360 concept,” explains Kate. “It's essential to bring together the performative nature of the subject and offer that experience to visitors.”
There’s a powerful soundtrack that morphs as you move through the exhibits and, as well as the theatrical staging, the exhibition brings the diva’s activism to the fore. In contrast to the crystals and corsets of the diva’s early incarnation, Act II of the exhibition brings a spotlight onto divas of all genders and their activist work, whether that’s campaigning for equal pay, gay rights in the 1960s or Billie Eilish speaking on Roe vs Wade at Glastonbury last year.
So, what makes a modern diva? A strong sense of self, courage, creativity and ability to reinvent themselves are given and divas are ready to embrace technology and spectacle. Seen through the V&A’s frame, true divas are also advocates and allies. Representation has been of utmost importance while curating the show. Sophie, Lil Nas X and Arca are all crowned as modern divas, (along with Beyonce and Rihanna, obvs.)
But where will the diva go next? Kate opines that “the next generation of divas will have to earn their stripes.” We will have to wait and see who will push the digital realm, who will inspire the next great collaborators from a fashion perspective and who will push the gender norms… But wherever they go, being called a diva just became the biggest compliment going. As it always should have been.
Diva is on at The Victoria & Albert museum from Saturday 24th June. To book tickets or for further information, click here.
For more from Glamour UK Fashion Director at large Alex Fullerton, follow her on Instagram @alexandrafullerton
